Food Addict: Finding the comfort zone

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Nothing fascinates me more than chefs who make elegant cuisines. As they prepare platters of dainty hor d’oeuvres or squeeze swirly dollops of whipped cream on top of French-named desserts, I marvel at their ability to turn food into art.

But I couldn’t imagine eating such food all the time. When I see photos of celebrities attending formal galas, they’re often nibbling away at the food-turned-art, while the expressions on their faces seem to read “Man, I just want a burger!”

I feel their pain. Comfort food appeals to me too. I love its simplicity and all-around appeal. I love that I can eat mashed potatoes at any time of the day and not feel weird or that despite my limited cooking abilities, I can make a mean grilled cheese in my home.

However, sometimes adventurous restaurateurs take comfort food out of it’s comfort zone. One time, I went to an upscale restaurant for dinner. I visited it a few times before and was familiar with their more “arty” food. As I scanned the menu, one item caught my eye: macaroni and cheese.

Were they serious? I read the little description printed underneath and cracked up at the ornate qualities of this version: four kinds of cheese, a breadstick on the side and probably a sprig of green parsley on top. Why not?

I ordered another dish but the situation left me both amused and baffled. Doesn’t the whole purpose of comfort food lie in the fact that anyone can make it? Why go out to dinner and pay an expensive bill for something that can be prepared at home?
And why give comfort food a make-over? It tastes good and sometimes nostalgia works its way in.

When I think of traditional macaroni and cheese, memories of my seven-year-old self eagerly watching my mother cook the boxed stuff appear. I remember the gurgling of boiling water and dipping my finger in the small drops of powdered cheese that spilled on the kitchen counter. Did the upscale restaurant’s gourmet mac and cheese bring this  memory to mind? No.

I know of a few restaurants that serve nothing but comfort food and it doesn’t change. Those restaurants recognize its simplicity and the importance of its standard, familiar taste. It doesn’t try to make art out of something that’s supposed to ordinary.

To upscale restaurants, I say leave comfort food alone. They can invent all the lemon-sprayed entrees they want, but comfort food does not need to change. Respect it for what it is. It’s not glamorous, but it has other purposes.

Comfort food needs a do-it-yourself aura around it. Just like people can’t stand to wear long gowns or stiff suits every day, they can’t eat gourmet cuisines regularly either.
It’s uncomfortable.

FRANCY MARCOTTE
Culture Editor

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Filed under: Culture — Archive @ 12:00 am October 8th, 2007

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